Thursday, May 5, 2011

7

It has been a long time since I last lead-climbed or in the words of my baby, "high walled". Well I got the fix that I needed yesterday and boy was it amazing to experience freedom and dexterity while at the same time remaining in control of every muscle on my body.

Things didnt start off that smoothly though. I had to hang dog 3 times while working on a white-green route what was supposedly graded 6c+. I managed to get all the moves programmed into my muscles and after a 20 min rest, I went on my red-point attempt and literally threw myself off the wall, totally not what I expected. Frustrated, I came down, retied my rope and finished it without a glitch.

The next route was an orange route, graded 6b+ which I flashed with plenty of time watching other people do the moves beforehand. After doing that, the white-green route doesnt seem like a 6c+ anymore... more like a soft 6c because the holds are just too good.

Tried another brown 6b+ which felt even easier. Juggy though it included a short overhanging section. Finished up my climbing session with 2 easy 6as.

Gone were the days where I used to be able to somehow push my way into onsighting 6cs. I'm also still fighting the battle to onsight 7as. I know that I am not far away from it. Persevere!

On a sidenote, I am glad not to grab on to any quickdraw when I was gonna fall.

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